Another Parisian tailor? Michaël Ohnona is one of the most respected guys in the business in France: many tailors are praising his work and role in the Parisian tailoring community! His favorite quote? “Braces should be reimbursed by the social security”!
The ideal wardrobe in a tropical climate? In his lovely shop near the Opera Garnier, Michael Ohnona shared his thoughts with My Selection on such a tricky question…
Michael Ohnona: All the elegant people will tell you: they prefer to get dressed in winter rather than in summer. May be because of the need to warm up which justify the superposition of clothes and hence multiply the different possible harmonies. On the contrary, summer or tropical weather are less likely to offer a broad range of choices of clothes … but allow, in my opinion, more whims. The main issue is regarding the fabrics used: they should be light and crease free. Linens and cottons are very nice but can’t be wore at work since they crease too much. Cold wools used in a tropical climate (from Super 100 to Super 180) will tend to warp in the humid conditions of Singapore. Synthetic fabrics are to be banned since they increase the sweating factor.
My Selection: So, what are our options?
MO: In these conditions, two types of fabrics should be the preferred options:
– The minnis frescos which are very dry and dynamic wools made of knotted yarns. The twist of fibres in the yarn being such that the fabric cannot be creased. Additionally, the fabric is so well aired that the choice of lining requires an extra care. This term became generic despite the Fresco designation is a fabric’s property.
– The Mohair wools, that some may call Alpaga, from the Angora goat. Dynamic and dry as the Fresco, the qualities of the fabric are provided in this case by the nature of the goat’s hair, not by the twisting. It’s the best fabric to tailor a business suit in tropical countries, a fabric which has long being used to build Tuxedo. Depending on the Mohair’s proportion (too dry to be used pure), the fabric will be brighter or darker.
MS: What would be the ideal wardrobe then?
MO: I would divide it into different steps:
1 navy blue mohair because there is nothing better to make someone stylish and smart 1 light grey mohair with a waistcoat because it’s stylish 1 slate blue Fresco to make secret agent 1 dark grey Fresco to go unnoticed 1 three piece suit in irish linen to show off as in « Death on the Nile » or « The Lover » All these suits will be tailored with 2 trousers because they are more delicate than the jackets
Jacket and trouser sets
1 navy blue braided blazer in Fresco and its light grey trouser 1 jacket in Seersucker and its navy blue cotton trouser
1 jacket in beige cotton reminding the Saharan spirit and its lighter beige trouser
As in temperate climates, some blue, some white and some white and blue shirts and: 1 Guayabera, cuban jacket – shirt to wear over the trouser Some long sleeves polo shirts in Sea island from John Smedley (ideal when a jacket can be dispensed)
1 pair of black closed shoes for the evening 1 pair of brown closed shoes for the day
1 pair of white bucks
1 pair of moccasins
1 pair of Spectator.
If you have a chance to visit Paris, book a rendez-vous with Michael through his website www.ohnona.com. He will understand your style very quickly and will bespoke a suit, trouser or a jacket perfectly matching your style. Tested and validated!